Chileans traditionally have their tea, also known as onces, around 7pm. Cafe Con Letras is a cosy, quiet place to try a typical Chilean tea, including a sandwich, pie, coffee or tea. The place offers a dozen tables surrounded by bookstands, feel free to browse through them. In 2009, they won the prize for the best once patrimonial in Valparaiso for the second time. For CLP3.500 you have coffee or tea, homemade pie, crunchy sopaipillas and a sandwich. Our personal favourite at Cafe Con Letras is a steaming hot chocolate with an incredible kuchen de manzana, best described as a reversed apple crumble, outside at the tiny terrace.You find Café con Letras on the corner of Almirante Montt where Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción meet. Check www.cafeconletras.cl