As Chileans are proud citizens , their national independent day does not take just one day but several days of partying. Around the 18th of September friends and family have spontaneous asados (barbecues) or join a more ‘organized’ popular event called Ramada or Fonda Guachaca. Squares are taken in by chairs, stands, barbecues and dance floors. Huasos (the traditional Chilean cowboys) show off their skills as do the drunks and the Cueca is being danced by young and old.
In the Ex-carcel, an old prison building used as a cultural meeting place nowadays, an oficial fonda guachaca is taken place on the 18th and 19th of September. Entrance fee is CLP5.000 and the fonda kicks off at 21h00.
(image: www.guachacas.cl)
Chileans traditionally have their tea, also known as onces, around 7pm. Cafe Con Letras is a cosy, quiet place to try a typical Chilean tea, including a sandwich, pie, coffee or tea. The place offers a dozen tables surrounded by bookstands, feel free to browse through them. In 2009, they won the prize for the best once patrimonial in Valparaiso for the second time. For CLP3.500 you have coffee or tea, homemade pie, crunchy sopaipillas and a sandwich. Our personal favourite at Cafe Con Letras is a steaming hot chocolate with an incredible kuchen de manzana, best described as a reversed apple crumble, outside at the tiny terrace.
We added Porto Viejo to our all time Valparaiso restaurant favourites. Why? Because they serve the Chilean fish classics in a no nonsense way with fresh products. Because of the correct and fast service. And because they bring new quality in an old setting, the Barrio Puerto: Valparaiso´s most traditional area and UNESCO world heritage.
During your stay in World Heritage City Valparaiso you will find lots of things to do. Here are our personal favourites:
Trolleys are pure charm and history. On Fridays and Saturdays at 11am-3pm-6:30pm you can enjoy a 2 hour guided tour on a trolley. Departure is at the trolley terminal on Avenida Argentina. All trolleys are in their original state, come from all over the world and are national monuments. Adults pay CLP8.000, children CLP4.000.